Sunday, May 20, 2012

Formal Launch of the Planning and Local Governance Project (PLGP)


On May 18th the PLGP was officially kicked off with great fanfare. 150 people including the Albanian Prime Minister, the US Ambassador and top USAID officials from DC were in attendance. All went well. Remarkable, given the political tensions and widely divergent opinions concerning the funding of local governments in Albania. The crux of the PLGP is to promote democratic decentralized local governance. We will be working with 15 of the largest municipalities in the country. In a nut shell we will attempt to build consensus on how best to transfer resources to local governments so they can carry out their responsibilities (like picking up the garbage). In a place where development, particularly on the coastline is out of control, we will also be assisting cities in urban planning. I am the only US citizen on the project but am supported by a great Albanian staff of 15.
Now the work begins! It should be interesting particularly with a national election within the next year.

Mayor Peter dangerous in front of a mic again

Left to right...Mayor of Korce, US Ambassador & Prime Minister

Trip to Permet


 



 

 

 

The Trip to Permet


So last Saturday 8 of us met to travel about 5 hours south to a valley town called Permet. It begins as all trips begin with coffee at one of 1.000 cafes in Tirana. We were 4 Albanians and 3 Americans and a Nicaraguan in two cars. At hour #2 we stopped in a coastal city of Vlora and had....yes another cup of coffee. The folks are terrific mostly women working in great projects here.

 Genci, the driver of our car had telephoned all his friends and decided to take this new road (under construction...remember this part) to save a bit of time. The hours in the car fly by as there is so much to see with everyone walking, riding donkeys, working in the fields, selling cherries by the side of the road and the local police standing around looking to stop speeders and add a bit to their wallets. Then there is the occasional flock of sheep to avoid on the curvy road! Anyway, we soon take our 4 wheel drive cars and drive up the side of an embankment to get on the unpaved, soon to be (maybe in a year) highway. We are in the first car but with the dust we kicked up, the second car hits a concrete bunker and smashes the bunker to bits. Believe it or not, the car is still able to run but Genci has to bandage up the front grill and bumper with bunjy cords. Meanwhile the highway men are scratching their heads, wondering if we will sue them! Occasionally another car or semi tractor trailer whizzes by. After the repair work, we proceed down the highway, cruising around the heavy equipment. Occasionally there is a barrier across the "highway". I am not sure why because the man next to it just raises it and gives us the nod to proceed. (See photo) Anyway, we begin to enter this magnificent valley. Snow capped mountains run right down to the river. Hot sulfur springs flow into the river at certain points with aqua blue water. There are 400 year old bridges and restaurants that this crew knows about where we stop to eat. Lamb is being cooked on the grill off to the side, quail, and baby piglet. There have these plums in a light honey sauce and yogurt different from others we have had. The excitement of these folks in anticipating these specialties is fun to be around and their expectations were met at every meal.
We pulled into the town of Permet and were met by this young affable mayor. At the hotel in town, Peter and I had the special suite for $30/night. Much merriment and lively conversation about politics, culture and language.
The following day we met up with a rafting outfit called "Outdoor Albania" and did a fun (but not as dramatic as Ottawa rafting, Elizabeth and Brian!) 5 hour trip down the river, gazing up at the snow in the mountains while it was 80 degrees on the shore. A television channel was filming this to promote tourism with the mayor and our crew. At one point with the cameras rolling, two women above us on the cliff, throw down three big plastic bags of garbage! The mayor goes up to talk to them and ask them to find another solution. To his dismay, the young woman was a student who just the week before had been part of the day long clean up the city initiative in the city of Permet! It is discouraging and a bit amazing to comprehend how people think the garbage will 1) reach the water, 2) float down the river and not get caught on branches and 3) land in the sea and do what there???

We had another fabulous meal around 5 and typical to the pace here, got home around 11:00 pm. Another amazing experience, for which we are grateful and cultivating new friendships to add to all of you back home!























Friday, May 4, 2012

Petrovac, Montenegro

Overnight in Montenegro

Stari Barr-  Ruins dating back to 1300's

Lunch at the mountain..You want trout? Go catch and grill it!
Sunset on one of Tirana's mountain tops
We look like this is a real hardship assignment!


 Trip to Shkodra, Albania and the Venetian Mask Factory
On to the coast of Montenegro in time for sunset
Typical stone buildings

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Highlights of our Greek adventure

Peter and I packed in a lot in 3 days in northern Greece. Below are some observations:
  • Mostly mountainous hillsides, quaint towns with slate roofs, friendly folks and great food! Just don't try to eat dinner before 10 pm!
  • The amazing area called Meteora is a unique geographical area of rocky spikes rising up along a valley. 600 to 800 years ago monks raised the building supplies up amazing heights and extensive monasteries were built. It was recorded that it took 20 years to bring up the building materials for one monastery and then it was built in 20 days. Monks were hoisted up great heights in baskets by means of a pulley.
  • We were there for the Greek Orthodox Easter. The celebration begins the night before Easter. Between11:00 and 11:50 pm (most come nearer to 11:45), people flock to the church. Each carry long taper candles that have been decorated with material, small toys, beads etc. wrapped around them. They enter the church and light many little candles (probably in memory of someone). Within a minute of setting their candle in the sand, a church elder, pulls them out and discards them to make way for more candles. People then go around to 4-5 "stations", genuflect and kiss the glass topped icon photos of holy folks. Meanwhile there is a mysterious voice chanting and others in the audience responding for an hour. There is noisy chatting while everyone waits to light the big candles at midnight then flock to the streets to party. 
  • Easter day we hiked through town and up to several monasteries. The smell of roasting lamb filled the air. Every third house had a rotisserie rigged up with one or two entire lambs cooking all day. Members of the family would turn the roasting lamb for hours. We were offered the most delicious kabobs along our hike. At our hotel, bright red hard boiled eggs were served for dinner and breakfast, with the tradition for two people to smack them together and thus have a good year. My egg broke very well but not Peter's. I don't know what that means!
  • We traveled west to a larger town for the night (Ioannina). Here we noticed a quaint town set on a lake with an island in the middle and snow capped mountains behind. We observed that the economy had taken its toll though. Many boarded up shops and cafes. It looked like they had been that way for several years. Life is very uncertain for many.
  • We traveled to small hillside towns (Metsovo and Monodendri), cobble stone streets, quaint churches and great folklore and art museums. We drove through a "stone forest", all outcroppings instead of trees. Then to a gorge that made the Guinness Book of World Records as being the highest natural gorge in the world. Check out the walkway to view the 2950 foot drop off!
  • Greece was somewhat more expensive than Albania. Delicious grilled lamb, tasty little dishes and red wine. Pastries were abundant, baklava, donuts, a round bread like hot cross buns with...of course a bright red egg in the middle. The Greeks don't eat much breakfast but in the B & B's you get a "toast" which is grilled wonder bread with a mild cheese and ham inside. 
  • Drivers are not as wild and crazy as here in Albania!  

World's Deepest Gorge

Looking down 2950 feet- World's Deepest Gorge

Check out the man (NOT Peter) walking along the path!