Thursday, July 12, 2012

July 4th in the Albanian Alps

Trip to northern Albania and Mountain region

A page out of our four day trip that you might enjoy reading.
Kaki, David, Peter and I hired a guide and set out to hike in the mountains.

A July 4th to Remember

Part I  5:15 AM
Tirana. We four are picked up in a non air-conditioned, no seat belts, mini van. Endrit is our guide and his friend Anis.
We pick up one beefy guy on the way north, although the driver had hoped to pick up more folks traveling north from Tirana.
After 1 1/2 hours we stop for the essential coffee. Coffee and tea for six people cost $3.00.
The next hour we climb up steep steal gray rocks, ringing a damned up lake with hundreds of power lines. This region supplies most of Albania with electricity.
There are very sparse settlements and our beefy passenger is let off at one of them.
We come to a big pile of brush like material covering the road, maybe 2 feet tall. The man standing beside the pile coaxes us through and thanks us for helping to crush his crop of thyme!
This part of our July 4th ends as we go through a 200 meter tunnel that feels more like a coal mine than a tunnel for cars.

Part II 9:00 AM
A water vehicle arrives to take us up the canyon lake that was a river before the damn was built. Actually the water vehicle is an old metal bus without a  chaise and wheels on a barge. Passengers cram on the boat along with luggage, food goods, construction material and gasoline in 2 liter plastic bottles. There are no safety instructions or life preservers and no guard rail on the front of the barge.
We travel up these mountain canyons, stopping at "villages". This is a whole new meaning of the word village. About 12 times the boat pulls in perpendicular to the shore where there are some rocks (as opposed to cliffs) and one or two people are waiting for the boat. There may be a donkey to carry the supplies that are off loaded. One or two people exit or enter by a crude gang plank. Someone carries off a 50 pound bag of flour up the steep path to god knows where.
We end at a piece of land with only a rusted car ferry tied up, no longer running.

Part III 12:30 PM
Many, many of us board a mini van. No AC with the temperatures at 90 degrees by now. The road in under construction so we slide under the back hoe that is moving dirt above us.
We are dumped off in a town, badly in need of trees to help with the heat. We walk, limply to the nearest cafe and order 4 beers, a coke and water for a total price of $5.00. Meanwhile, cows are sauntering through town, apparently led by no one and in no hurry to move for cars.

Part IV 2:30
We pack into the second mini bus with the same lack of safety or comfort features. This time the driver continues to stop and put people into the van when there are no more seats or room for luggage. He stops at a gas station and fills up 3, 2 liter soda bottles of gasoline. There is truly no room for them so he puts them by his feet on the floor among the petals. With a very cracked windshield, we take off on roads that defy description. Heads are hitting the windows, people on top of each other but merry conversation among the travelers, especially the driver. There is enough lumber on the roof to build a house.
We follow the most gorgeous river with aqua blue water and climbing higher and higher into the snow capped mountains. Occasionally we stop at some remote place and after a honk of the horn, someone comes out and the driver gives them the gasoline, money that someone has asked him to deliver, crates of soda, 50 pound sacks of flour or lumber. It is sort of like My Grocer!

Part V 4:00 PM
Ten hours later we arrive at our modest guest house with natural waterfalls, ringed with mountains in the small village of Valbonne. The reception is friendly, the roasted lamb tasty and we are in bed by 9:00.
The only problem is the bus group that arrived later in the afternoon. From 9 until 12 PM they had a raucous group dinner and dancing to this god awful ethnic music.  Insulation is not a strong suit in these guest houses!
While there were no fireworks, hamburgers and hot dogs….it will truly be a 4th of July to remember!

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

The best, worst and unexpected in Albania

The Albanians love this regal style....We've counted 54 so far.
The driver needs to be alert around each corner...
NY Times rated this one of best 10 beaches in the world

Photos of Albanian coastliine

What's there to say?  Albanian Riviera
The only "highway" running down the coast to Greece
Peter is concentrating on his driving so he doesn't end up like this person!

Albanian Riviera

A Weekend on the Albanian Riviera


Picture a ride over a steep mountain range, then dropping down to the crystal aqua waters of the Ionic Sea in a small town. Add the remains of a church built in the 1300s and this is Dhermades Beach.
We stayed in a clean simple hotel and enjoyed the AC in 90 degree heat.
You could see down to the bottom of the sea at 15 feet with an idyllic water temperature of 80 degrees.
The cost of a meal still hovers around $20 for two with wine.
Here are some of our observations we thought you might enjoy......Photos to accompany these observations are in the next post.
  • Along the only road heading south from Tirana are stands with locals selling products. There may be the 2 km section where everyone is selling a big bag of potatoes or the next section it is honey with their hives cascading up the hill. Maybe the next produce is cherries on a string with the vendors out in the middle of the road to catch your attention.
  • The tourist season along the coast is 55 days. Yes. It corresponds to school vacation. The hotels charge $75 per night versus $30 the rest of the year and if they are full 40 of the days during high season, they can live for the rest of the year.
  • Most people in southern Albania speak Greek. Many have immigrated to Greece and put their money in the Greek banks but now Albanian banks are receiving many deposits as the state of Greek banks is not so dependable.
  • No where did we see a one piece bathing suit...except yours truly. I look like I am dressed for the 1940s. All sizes dawned the bikini!
  • Sadly along our route in the mountains a bus went off the cliff about a month ago and killed 15 students. We passes the scene with charred remains of the bus and many decaying bouquets.
  • Peter and I keep a count of the number of hotels and houses we see that are fake castle imitations. 
  • People here are hard workers. Most work 7 days a week and long hours.
  • We passed a man in the middle of the main highway with no legs, begging for money. Peter did wonder if he lost his legs because he sat in the middle of the road.
  • Even in this little town, there is building everywhere. Grrrr. We did see a log cabin, swiss chalet being hastily finished for the start of the season. It had a coco clock up under the roof.
  • There is usually one communist building that is dreary, decaying and yet eye sore in the middle of a town.
  • Peter continues to get us safely up and down these incredible roads as we enjoy the scenery in this country. 


Dhermades Beach


View from our $30/ night hotel balcony
Just down the dirt road from our hotel...another one!
Tough life...

Monday, June 4, 2012

More photos of Day at the Beach

Those fresh caught sea bass grilled on the beach...delicious!
Beach Day - Page 2
Life isn't perfect in Albania....Their plastic blight!
Peter enjoying the steep drop offs on our hike

Day on the beautiful beach near Tirana

Where the dictator, Hoxha, stored his tanks and weapons
Where his 700,00 bunkers kept us out and them protected!
Ruins on the beach. Foundation is Illyrian, 2,000 yrs. old!