Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Myanmar Adventure - Part 1 of 3 blogs


On a spur of the moment, I decided (with Peter's blessing) to go to Myanmar for 2 1/2 weeks. I had an Albanian/American friend who is doing a project there for 4 months. With her God daughter and three friends, I was welcomed to join the group and see this hidden country.

The first stop was to fly to Bangkok and try to get a visa. My friend, Claudia had to let the government know that she would be hosting guests during our stay. I decided to hire a "handler", Frankie to assist in getting me my visa. He said he offered candy to the visa folks and "greased the wheels".

While is Bangkok, I visited the elaborate, ornate and very organized "Royal Palace".



Amazing mosaics, tiled roofs and gold leaf


Lunch in the local "cafes" for $1.50

The dishwasher

Delicious Pad Thai!
This is a "give thanks" shrine at a large car dealership on the highway

Amazing floral bouquet, with bamboo stalks at my hotel
Bangkok airport women's bathroom. Nice touch with a real plant.


Sitting in reclining seats among the orchids in Bangkok.
So I leave Thailand. It is a country with mass transit, good infrastructure, upscale shopping and night time bargain markets and women in clubs pole dancing and prostitutes hanging around outside.

On to Yangon (formally Rangoon) Myanmar. There is quite the contrast.


A little history....There are135 ethnic groups in Myanmar with the largest group being the Bamar or Ahnyarthar. The British changed the name to Burma (Bamar) for ease of pronunciation but in defiance, the Communist regime changed it back to Myanmar (pronounced Meeanmar).   

This is the apartment where I stayed. This is the system to deliver the newspaper to the woman on the 4ht floor. The bigger apartments are expensive, partly because the generals from the previous regime took land, built larger apartments and now, can charge a lot. Most apartments don't have an oven but do include a hot plate. One of our guides moved to China with her husband and for two years worked in a casino. They bought an apartment in Yangon for $250,000 last year and 6 months later it is worth $500,000. There are no mortgages so cash is king. 

If you want to make a call and don't have a phone...here is your street side option. There are no I Phones for sale. You can only get them on the black market. The sim card cost $2,000 last year. Now that is down to $200.

With the hot humid climate in Myanmar, their apartment houses are covered in mold.

Central Market




Dragon fruit
This woman sells beetle pouches She takes a leaf, coats it in lye, yes lye, and  puts in a few beetle seeds. Then she wraps it in the leaf. Men and women put them in their cheek, like chewing tobacco, and get a mild high. I kept wondering why there was all this ketchup spatter on the sidewalk. Leaves ones teeth a bright red. 



So the street side tea cafes or restaurants often have these chairs built for pre-schoolers.




In this hot climate, there are these free water stands. You just take the cup, dunk it in the water vessel and replace for the next person.

Street side chefs cook on one or two woks, feeding the fire with small wood pieces.

When you go to a tea cafe, you take one of these cups from this bowl with about 1 inch of water in the bottom. After drinking your tea, you inverted and replace the cup for the next person....

Rice store
This is the wealthier part of Yangon that the British built. They came in 1824 and were in some process of establishing a democratic government with General Aung Suu when in 1948, a pre-war socialist general assassinated Aung Suu. His daughter, Daw Aung Suu Kyi is the Nobel Peace Prize woman who returned to her homeland and helped to defeat the Communists in 2010. She still lives there and is an activist.

Aung Suu Kyi's house on the lake and a photo of her assassinated father over her front gate.



The infrastructure is needing attention. Sidewalks are hazardous, the open water system runs next to the sidewalk and, in the last two years, traffic is heavy. There are no pedestrian lights to cross. You just run. With traffic delays in some of the main intersections, up to 30 minutes, the drivers remain calm, no honking of horns. Electricity comes and goes. Two of the four nights I was at my friend's house in Yangon, we lost power from 6 to 10 pm on two nights. During rush hour these mini vans have people hanging off them in all directions.

Entering a monastery in a downpour
 So three of us were taking a walk around the lake when the rains came. We took shelter under a doorway only to peek in the room and see a wedding going on. Drenched and bedraggled, a wedding guest saw us and ushered us in. Before we knew what was happening, we were in the photos with the bride and groom, seated at a table and given lunch, surrounded by the children and women starring at us and frequently the ones being photographed by the camera men!







 A story about mailing a post card to my mother-in-law. Our guide took me into this high ceiling room with about 50 workers. They were sitting at desks, mostly starring into space. It took 5 stops to complete the act. First stop was to see who you had to visit. Then to buy the stamp from someone. Off to have another glue the stamp to the postcard. Third to have someone stamp the card as paid. Fourth to hand the card to someone who put it in the box of outgoing mail!

I will leave this part 1 of my blog with some photos of the wonderful people in this country.....


The yellow face paint is from the bark of a tree and serves as both a suntan lotion and decoration















Myanmar Adventures - Part 2 of 3 Blogs

Our travels in the countryside took us to 3 spots in Myanmar. We flew to each, no delays, $90 a flight and you even got some donuts and green sweet sandwiches on the flight.

First stop was Bagan. 


This is an interesting place. In the mid 11th century a King reigning over his territory, was hearing about Buddhism in India and decided that his land was a religious place. He found a small white elephant that supposedly had special powers. He announced that wherever this elephant stopped to rest, he would build a magnificent pagoda. The elephant stopped 4 places and the king delivered. The bricks used were floated down from the north on the nearby river and crafts people added the gold and sculptural detail. The rich folks built big pagodas around the King's creations. Middle income somewhat more modest and even the poorest, built small testaments to Buddha in thanks for what they had OR what they wanted. For 150 years, until 1200, over 1700 of these were built. At that time, the reigning King was defeated by another from the north. The river ran dry, the plains had a drought and became too dry to grow crops so the people all left the area. It was only at the end of the 19th century that an explorer came upon these numerous and magnificent structures.






Some went by bike, buggy and others by horseback. I took the latter and there was precious little for a saddle!



Do you see a saddle???




Most people live in small compounds they call a monastery and thus have been protected from police brutality over the last century.

Washing dishes The containers above are their lunch pails with a compartment for rice, and two dishes.



Very common to take a siesta on this platform in the center of the community while kids play.

The gardener at our hotel

Family going to the Water Festival through several modes of transportation




Amazing landscape, peppered with pagodas




On to the second stop - Inley Lake, a wonderful shallow, large lake. 

The region has a Venice like feel with its dependence on the water for community life.


From the airport to the lake we had to stop at the Red Mountain Winery and have some Sarah! Delicious.
Mountain road transport

These long boats became our transportation for the next 3 days.




Living on the water. Each house has a long, narrow row boat underneath.


Bath time on the water

Water highways


Washing dishes

These were lining the "highway"water route and made by children to celebrate the 2 week Festival of Light



So what is the festival of light?? It is celebrating the end of the rainy season (although we got some good downpours while we were there) and the beginning of winter. In every place we visited, each night there were people lighting multiple candles at the shrines, pouring water over the Buddha statues, and praying. By day there were parades and floats. We were lucky to be there for the final day.

People come in by the boat loads waiting for the parade and boat races



This gold pagoda is actually a float on the water. It brings the holy water to the pagoda for closing ceremonies



There are these outrageously long boats with maybe 70 men on each side. They have a unique way of rowing. Standing on one leg, they wrap their other leg around the oar.Thus they paddle with one arm and one leg.


This is a race between 2 boats. Look closely to see how they wrap their leg around the oar. Meanwhile there are people along the middle of the boat (of the 150 or so paddlers) that are madly bailing out the boat so it doesn't sink.
This is the inside of a good size house. There are no chairs or tables.

TVs are popular, sitting on the floor.

Cooking rice cakes in the ashes

The boys who wear the long skirts just hike them up as shorts to play ball
This is a display of evil to good as one travels to the next life

There were walls and walls of these Buddha dolls given by different people in countries all over the world to help restore this monastery

These are the evil bad guys asking to be redeemed by Buddha for their bad ways 

This is the largest monastery in this region, crammed with these pagodas

When one won't do! 




We were the first guests at this fabulous new hotel that also is an educational center training young people in hospitality. Clever touches and of course the use of flowers


Even the hair dryer to the left is decorated


This hotel of ours is built on the water. You can see how they put down bamboo poles and then bring in soil to raise crops for the restaurant.

Our room in the foreground

The first class to learn the art of hospitality 

This woman is part of the Karen tribe, adding gold rings as one matures to create the long neck effect!

5 of the 6 of us

Woman spinning lotus thread





Women painting the lacquer bowls


Trying to learn the Buddha hand gestures


Fishermen on the lnley Lake




Good-bye to a special water experience.

Stop 3 is to the beach at Ngapali.


This was the R & R part of the trip (not that we could qualify for the status of "burnt out").
Lovely beach, fishing villages and continuing yummy food, beautifully presented.


A lunch dish just for me!

Great breakfast of soup with all the condiments to go with the rich flavors

Cereal with added elements

Perfect birthday cake for me of pineapple, bananas and mandarin oranges. Sweets are not part of the diet.


Island for snorkeling and meditating

...and a Myanmar beer!
Buddha overseeing the beach
People were never pushy with their goods for sale

The team gets the catch of the day




Fishing village near our resort

Smelly drying fish from the early morning catch


Kids in the fishing village




What does one do on her birthday?
How about a facial and heavy duty massage..



You too can do this at home. Mix avocado with egg white and honey then top with cucumbers!

90 minutes for $10 with an arm/leg massage for the 45 minutes that the cucumbers are on your face!


Happy Birthday, Betsy