Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Traveling the small roads in Southern Montenegro

Many a tourist guide will detail the gorgeous coastline that spans the western side of Montenegro (Crna Gora or Black Mountain as the natives call their country). It is about a 3 hour trip from Tirana to get to some of the mid-coastal cities along a first class highway.

Peter and I decided to take some smaller roads, parallel to the coast highway.  Steep mountains to our west and Lake Skhodra to our east made for a gorgeous 90 minute drive. Lake Skhodra, a very long dolphin shaped lake, is often overlooked in favor of the famous sea towns. Most of the lake is in Montenegro (the spectacular part, I might add). The southern end is in Albania.
The lake has amazing bird life, clear water and floating meadows of lilies. The mountain towns around the area are hidden gems of historic churches, Tito monuments and tidy homes.

Above and below are the roads that make Peter's palms sweat but he always elects to drive them!


The Lake has small islands. I loved the pink cloud reflection in the water.






Above and below are examples of the colorful floating plants and lily "meadows".







We did cross the mountain range to the seaside city of Budva, an old walled in city.

Ever seen this German bus/hotel system? You don't have to unpack your bags!!





In our typical good luck, we arrived in Budva to the Fish, Wine and Song Festival. It was VERY local. You can see the somewhat bored faces in the parade but many parents cheering on their offspring.








These are photos of mountain towns, on back roads, quietly elegant.



During the time of Yugoslavia, a symbolic red star and soldier in the center of each town.




Grape harvesting time was in full swing when we were there. Below is a wine maker taking a break from making his wine (notice his shirt) to have us taste some raki and wine. Afterwards he invited us back the next day for breakfast!





Here is the raki maker with his "still". Peter is enjoying the "brew".





One night we stayed at a hotel on this pristine river feeding into Lake Skhodra ahead of you. Amazing bird life.









Eating dinner with a great bottle of Montenegrin Chardonnay at sunset.

Beautiful final evening to savor the lake, the mountains and sunset.



Sunday, September 21, 2014

Pope Francis Visits Albania

Today was the much anticipated date for Pope Francis to visit Tirana, Albania. The Vatican selected this country for two reasons.
First, to honor the 100 clerics that were killed because of their religious affiliations during the Communist dictator's reign. Enver Hoxha, the dictator, was the first European leader to ban the practice of any religion in 1967.
The second reason that the Pope came to Albania was the reality that this small country is totally tolerant of any and all religions. While 60% say they are Muslims (not surprising after 500 years under the Ottoman Rule), many don't practice. The Orthodox church (6%), the Catholic church (10%) and various Christian sects....all coexist with absolutely no judgement.

One of the most amazing aspects to the Pope's visit is how Tirana transformed its center city in preparation for the event. When I have been walking on sidewalks with gaping holes and uneven bricks, watching cafes go up without any permits and lamenting the lack of green spaces in the city for almost 3 years....in 3 weeks look what was created.

My photos are basically behind the scenes as Peter and I were not in the reserved seats for the event. 
We witnessed the Mass with the masses.




These 100 banners, hung across the major boulevard, each honoring a religious figure executed during the Communist period. The nun above was the only female executed. Her torture prior to being killed was to put a tomcat in her pants and the guards would swat her pants so as to anger the cat and cause biting and scratching. Not pretty!



3 story cafes were leveled, trees and grass planted and old cement walls re-plastered 


During the dictator's time, labor was free and plentiful. All the wide sidewalks were laid by hand in concentric circles. This process was again applied.



This is the newly constructed "stage" where Pope Francis would conduct Mass

With daily massive watering, this grass turned somewhat green in 3 days. Peter's office is the building ahead of you




Debate over the final details on the stage for the Mass


The enormous sound system in 12 locations would blare out Michael Jackson's "I Am The One" prior to Sunday





Buildings got into the spirit





Before the Pope was to arrive, this sunset set an optimistic omen






Crowds numbering 500,000 gathered to watch the Mass on large screen TVs






These photos are off the big screen so they leave a bit to be desired.. Sorry

Descending the plane, a regular Alitalia jet

Helicopter security announces Pope Francis arriving in the center city. He rode in a modest compact car. There were 2500 police on the ground.


Faces of those in the crowd











This is a view of the stage from our veranda

Look very closely and you will see the Pope with the tall hat

Mother nature didn't cooperate with a downpour as Mass began





The choir singing all day, the excitement in the crowds gathered and a tiny country shinning with pride, summed up the experience for me.